Magazine ZHAM 2016
FORWARD TO THE PAST WITH THE ARMENIA "TARAZ"
LILIT MELIKYAN: “THE MAIN THING IN LIFE IS TO BE ENGAGED WITH YOUR OWN BUSINESS”
In the 21st century, modern costume is one of the decisive accents that form the image of a person and his perception by the people around him, as well as emphasize the relevance of the folk proverb: “Greeted by clothes, escorted by the mind”.
In contrast to the modern one, the national costume characterizes the individuality of the culture of a given nation. In addition, speaking about the national costume, it should be not forgotten that even the most inconspicuous detail of it carries the cultural code of an entire people and can serve as an encrypted message.
Our interlocutor is Lilit Melikyan — the director of the “Teryan” Cultural Center.
Interviewed by Armine Aharonyan.
— Lilit, perhaps the question will seem somewhat unusual: what is the national costume for you?
— For me, the national costume is a means of self-expression of my culture, it is my attitude to culture, my concept of taste, and ideally it is one of the types of decorative art.
— As far as I know, your first suit is “Taraz”. Did you sew it for yourself?
— Yes, everyone liked it, everyone asked: “Who is she?” I sewed the costume without copying the outfit of the artist and ethnographer Lusik Aghuletsi, and with the traditionally correct approach to the outfit itself; I stylized it — it was an Artsakh costume, I’m from Nagorno-Karabakh, after all. I myself really like this contrasting combination of red and green. In this costume, I was on the air with the fashion historian Alexander Vasiliev in the program “Fashionable Sentence”. People rent this suit from me in order to be photographed in it; but most of time I keep it by me — this is my lucky talisman.
— If you were asked to describe the image of a modern business Armenian woman, what kind it would be?
— In general, I believe that the mentality of an Armenian woman, which has been created for centuries, was inclined towards the image of a domestic woman, i.e. housewives, a skilled cook, a good mother and a loving wife, but modern life makes it possible, without discarding these responsibilities, to do what she loves to do, if she has one.
Of course, this brings a colossal burden into life, but the goal that a modern woman strives for, and which contributes to her self-affirmation, justifies the time and effort spent on her. The appearance of such a woman also requires the allocation of time for herself, while the main emphasis should be placed on the image of a modest, well-groomed, fashionable and modern woman.
— But did you manage to combine art with commerce?
— It turned out that I live and do what I love, and what I do has aroused great interest among many people, so there is an impression of commercial activity. In fact, this is not exactly so. Despite the fact that we have achieved a lot in attracting the interest of many people of different nationalities to the Armenian culture, nevertheless, if you look at our company’s budget, you will notice that it works not in profit, but in decline, we give more than we sell, because our goal is to promote Armenian art and culture. Now, if all this is profitable, only then will I consider myself a business woman who has succeeded in transferring her work into money. In addition, I skip necessary and important parties, I do not attend all kind of PR-brunches.
I believe that I am at that age and position that I cannot bring myself to go to a party in order to make a checkmark, all this is necessary until the age of forty, and after that you can afford to do what you want.
— That is, internal growth leads to the fact that a person decides and does what he wants?
— Actually, God decides for us, I am a very God-fearing person, while I believe that this feeling of calmness in life comes when a person finds his way of life. For me personally, everything is divided into ‘up to thirty-five years’ and ‘after’. It was at the age of thirty-five that everything changed for me: a child was born, I lost a very important person for me and realized that a woman should, firstly, correctly feel her feminine principle, sort out her feelings within herself, and then go into business, because when you are a business woman, and there is no loved one nearby, then you will waste your energy in the wrong direction. Having found harmony within yourself, you will show it in your deeds. By artificially forcing yourself to do something, you will not achieve success.
— Lilit, tell us in a nutshell how the idea of a cultural center came about?
— The authorship of the idea of creating a cultural center belongs not to me, but to our chairman, art critic, Teryanologist Arushan Hakobyan, that’s why the cultural center is called that way. But, since I began to lead it, I brought my hobbies into the center, and, among other things, began to develop the direction of decorative art and design. My many acquaintances-businessmen told me “it’s so well that you considered to make national costumes”, but in fact I didn’t come up with it, I just did what I love. So I just want to tell by my example, example of my cultural center that in fact, if you do your favorite thing and do it with devotion for a long time, then you will definitely achieve positive results.
At the age of thirteen we read books, collected materials, went to museums, and also conducted research activities, as a result of which we could write a book and finish our work, but this was not enough for us and we, completely without any commercial background, made their own collection of costumes, after which it turned out that many would like to buy them. Basically, these were Armenian communities or Armenian churches in different cities of the world, where parents could bring their children and acquaint them with this part of our history. And already when we started to work at that level in order to use our knowledge in stylization, we involved ethnographers. Today, everything that makes me ‘Lilik Melikyan’ is connected with my country, its way of life, its people.
— What is the principle of the center?
— In our center, each person does his own business, but at the same time they are closely interconnected, so it comes out a so-called collective work. Everybody knows all the things, but everyone does what he knows very well.
— But, despite all this work, your production is not mass. What is needed for this?
— Yes, indeed, for mass production, there will be needed appropriate investments; today we can make piece products, our maximum is 50 pieces of the same outfit. In addition, for mass production, a mass sale is also needed, and we should take into account that our visitors are not the people from the street, everything is quite specific here: we do not sew fancy dress costumes, but we are engaged in sewing of national costume and its revival in the XXI century, and that’s why it’s a little bit early to talk about mass sales.
— What contributed to the fact that you stayed in Armenia?
— Sure, it was love. Only it can keep me somewhere. In my case, it was love for a man, but not only that, also love for the people who surround me, love for my work, for my homeland.
I have been in different countries, and I still have offers to move there. When I studied abroad, I still felt this affection to Armenia. Now I’m not going anywhere at all. I realized this after last year’s four-day war. My brother lives in Moscow, and my friend was a participant in the April military events, and when my brother said: “Come on, move to Moscow,” I refused. If before I could still think about leaving somewhere, now I can’t. I got an intuitive feeling that in 10 years Armenia will be the most comfortable country among small countries. There are people who correctly think that our people have a chance to move away from the prevalence of material over spiritual values.
— You mentioned in our conversation that you have your own workers in the regions. What are they doing?
— Mostly they carry out embroidery. We place orders and pay for their work. Today, in my opinion, the big problem is the devastation of border villages. In addition, today it is not as difficult to make money in Yerevan as in the regions, and we all must, as far as we can, help people not to leave their homes.
— What is “Taraz Art”?
— When I tried to register my website and tried to buy a domain for Taraz, it turned out that such a name already existed, and then, after long-time deliberation, the idea of “Taraz Art” came to my mind. We have finally acquired the copyright and 7 items from what we produce are already protected. And I will even soon try to sue in order to protect our copyrights, so that people know – it is forbidden to take and use other people’s thoughts, ideas, works.
— What are your plans for the future?
— Soon will be taken place the collection-show “11/11 Kings and Queens”. We have chosen those kings and queens whom we consider significant in the history of Armenia. We will show our interpretation of their clothes. And later you will see a collection that we made together with a girl with autism. These are the usual fashionable clothes from the “Teryan” Cultural Center. Also in the plans are proposals for schoolchildren, and in the autumn we will show a new collection by use of Indian fabrics, which was not shown this year — it will be completely dedicated to India. With this collection, we will try to inspire the desire of every person to use exclusively environmentally pure fabrics in clothes.







